Observations of Costa Rica

I've been in Costa Rica for over three weeks now, so I figure it's time to write about some of my observations of the country thus far. Keep in mind that these cannot necessarily be taken as true for the entire country, just of the two places I've been to so far: San Jose, the capital city, and Playa Chiquita, on the south Caribbean coast. 

Things are much more expensive than I expected

I had the impression that when I came to Costa Rica, my dollars would have a lot of spending power so everything would feel very cheap. Sadly, that has not been the case. From the very beginning in San Jose, I was surprised at how expensive things were. Not as expensive as the U.S., but not as much cheaper as I was hoping. When I went to restaurants in San Jose, I could spend less than $10 on a meal, but usually it wasn't much less, and you can definitely spend more than that if you're less frugal than I am (I usually go for one of the cheapest things on the menu, and don't get a drink, appetizer, or dessert). Even going to the grocery store for food wasn't much cheaper than I'm used to, so I was very glad that I already had volunteer jobs lined up that will save me a lot of money while I'm here. (One thing that was very cheap in San Jose was the local buses, which cost between $0.50 and $2.00, depending on how far outside the city the bus was going). 

Then when I got to Playa Chiquita, I was even more shocked. Things are even more expensive here than in San Jose. Specifically food because that's one of the only things I've spent money on. It's probably because I'm in a small town which only has a very small general store, which usually have higher prices in the U.S. too, and this store in particular costs more than a typical supermarket in the States. A can of beans can cost more than $2.00, and I saw a small container of almond milk for $7.00! No way was I going to pay that much, so luckily they had soy milk that was about $3.00. One avocado there was almost $2.00, and a 1 liter bottle of water was $1.50. 

The only food item I've noticed is consistently less expensive here is smoothies. I've gotten several smoothies and they only cost about $3.00, whereas you'll be lucky these days to find one for less than $7.00 in the U.S. Also, cigarettes are much cheaper. One of the other volunteers smokes, and she pays $3.00 for a pack of Pall Malls!

So as I've learned here, Costa Rica is not as cheap as most people think, and is more expensive than other countries in Central America. I think there are several reasons for that, but the main thing is tourism. As more tourists come with more money, the prices are driven higher and higher. It's an unfortunate side effect of Costa Rica being such an attractive vacation destination, especially for North Americans and Europeans. 

You can drink the water! (In some places)

I was pleasantly surprised to discover when I got to San Jose that my hosts offered me tap water. I asked if was safe to drink and they said yes, as long as you are somewhere with city water. So even at restaurants in San Jose I ordered tap water and I was perfectly fine. The water in Playa Chiquita is also safe, so the only reason I've had to buy a bottle of water in Costa Rica is because I lost my reusable metal water bottle on the beach last week and needed something to drink out of. Before I got here I was dreading the number of bottles of water I would have to buy, thinking because of all of the advice I'd heard and read that all of the water here would make me sick. I've actually had fewer stomach issues here than I usually do at home, so apparently something here is agreeing with me. :) I hope this trend of potable water continues as I travel to different cities and towns. 

Roads and driving

Even though it is easy to rent a car here because you're allowed to drive as long as you have a license from another country, I don't think I would want to because the roads make me a little nervous. In San Jose, it was not as organized as driving in the U.S. and felt more like a free-for-all. Most drivers seem less cautious than I'm accustomed to and more likely to make risky maneuvers, and then there are motor bikes zipping in and out of traffic everywhere. Crossing the street as a pedestrian was also sometimes nerve-wracking, especially if there was no crosswalk. Jaywalking was commonplace in the city, and drivers would not slow down, they would just expect people to get out of the way in time, and sometimes they would give a honk as they approached for good measure. The roads outside the cities are often narrow and sometimes on the side of very steep slopes going through the mountains. I would definitely have to work up the nerve to drive here, and it would take some getting used to. 

Toilet paper

Everywhere I've been so far in Costa Rica, used toilet paper goes in the trash, not in the toilet. This was not new to me because I'd experienced it in Greece and Turkey, but it was something I didn't really consider before I arrived. It was interesting to me that only a few bathrooms I went to, mostly in restaurants, had signs saying this. I expected it would be more clear since there are lots of tourists here, but I guess they just expect most people will figure it out, like I did. However, people who have never experienced that system before would probably have no idea, just like me when I first got to Greece. It only took me a couple of days for it to become second nature, and I only did it wrong a few times, but when I think about it, it still seems a little weird. I guess that's just one of those little things that will never totally make sense because I grew up never even considering that there was a different way to do it than what I was used to.

Light switches and power outlets

One little difference I've noticed is the light switches. I have seen several varieties but most are some variation of what I think of as a "see-saw" type:

This one is in the kitchen at the lodge where I'm staying, and you push down on one end of the button and the other side goes up, like a see-saw. I know the picture isn't great, but maybe you can tell that in this picture, the middle switch is on and top and bottom are off. 

Then there's one thing I was surprised was not different here: the power outlets. By doing research before arriving, I learned that Costa Rica uses both the American and European outlets and plugs, but all of the outlets I've encountered so far have been the American variety, which makes it easy because I haven't had to use my adapter at all. There is one plug in our bathroom that appears to take both, but I haven't tried it yet. 

Dish soap

I really like the dish soap I've used here! Again, I can't say whether this is a common occurrence or just a coincidence at the two places I've been so far, but the dish soap comes in a small plastic tub instead of a bottle, and the soap itself is more solid instead of liquid-y. This means that instead of having to pick up the bottle and pour soap onto the sponge each time you need more, you just dip the sponge back into the tub. Quick and easy! Here is a (very poorly lit) picture of what the soap looks like:

Note the sponge already sitting in the soap ready to just grab and scrub

Now I want to look for this when I get back to the U.S. I'd never seen it before so I have no idea if it exists at home. Anyone know?

Showerheads

Both places I've showered so far have this type of showerhead:

Sorry again about the lacking picture quality

The pipe sticks straight out from the wall and the showerhead itself points straight down, so the water falls straight onto you instead of pointing out at a slight angle like I'm used to. This means it's not adjustable, so if the water isn't pointing exactly where you want it, tough luck. The plus side is that the showerheads so far have been high enough for me so I don't have to stoop down to get the water onto my head. :)

Washing machine

The washing machine we have here at the lodge is unlike anything I've seen before, although, like I said, I can't say with any certainty that this is common for Costa Rica. This machine is much more interactive than I'm used to, and requires more effort than simply putting the clothes in, pushing start, and waiting till it's done. Here is a picture:

On the left is where you put the clothes and soap, and it washes the same way as the top-loaders that I'm used to. Then when the wash cycle is done, you have to drain the water and move the clothes to the right side, which is the spin cycle. Then you put the clothes back in the first compartment and add more water for the rinse cycle, then repeat the spin before moving the clothes to the dryer. It's more time-consuming, but kind of fun.

It's touristy, but in a different way than I'm used to

At first, I didn't get the feeling that I get in some places that it's over-run with tourists. In San Jose, I definitely saw mostly Costa Ricans, and when I got to Playa Chiquita, it didn't feel too touristy because it's a very small, quiet town. However, as I've spent more time here, I'm realizing that there are actually a lot of tourists and expats in this area, and almost every building in this town is a hotel, lodge, restaurant, or house for rent. A lot of people from other countries seem to come here to live, and they open hotels, restaurants, etc to make money from the tourists. I've met very few actual Ticos (the term Costa Ricans use to refer to themselves), and walking along the road here I encounter a lot of people speaking other languages, especially English. Things like that remind me of a conundrum I sometimes face when I'm traveling: I want to experience the real culture of a place so I don't want to be surrounded by tourists, but I myself am a tourist, so how am I different from any of the other Americans or Europeans I see? I don't want to be part of the reason that areas like this are getting more developed as more and more people come, but by default as a traveler I contribute to this pattern. 

Money

Last but not least, some observations about money. First, Costa Rican money is beautiful. I don't have a picture right now unfortunately because all of the bills I have are really ratty, but hopefully I can take one soon. Each denomination is a different beautiful, vibrant color, and in addition to the person depicted on the front, has some sort of art or wildlife on the back. 

Secondly, the value of the currency. The Costa Rican currency is called the "colon," and there are about 500 colones to a dollar. This was a little weird at first because even when you are buying something that only costs a few dollars, the amount is in thousands. But I've adjusted quickly, and luckily there is a quick and easy conversion calculation: multiply the amount in colones by 2, then remove three 0's. It's not exact obviously, but it's very close, so it's easy to estimate the cost in dollars each time I see a price. There are coins that are worth 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 and 500 colones, and bills worth 1,000, 2,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000 and 50,000 colones (and maybe something higher that I haven't seen yet, I'm not sure). 

Thirdly, something I didn't expect is how readily American dollars are accepted here. ATMs give the choice of getting colones or dollars, and places geared towards tourists will have prices listed only in dollars. It's a little frustrating because I don't like how American culture seems so widespread throughout the world; I travel to see something new, not just to see America transplanted in other places. But I guess that's just the way it is, and I'll have to accept that America is one of the most influential countries in the world, so it's bound leave it's mark. Also, I always take colones out of the ATM, so when someone tells me a price in dollars, I have to ask what it is in colones. I don't like them assuming I'm using dollars just because I'm not Costa Rican, and on the flip side, I would feel very presumptuous and rude using my own currency in another country. 

Bonus fun fact (speaking of American culture)...American restaurants/companies I have seen in Costa Rica so far: Taco Bell, KFC, McDonald’s, Mobil gas, Hard Rock Cafe, Wyndham hotel, Double Tree hotel, Subway, Quiznos, Pizza Hut, Starbucks...and I'm sure there are more.


So there you have it, my observations of Costa Rica so far. I'm sure I will have more to come as I explore more of this country. Thanks for reading!